
Spring/Summer 04 collection
November 11th-30th 2003 Tokyo – Showroom: Diptrics inc. Showroom
October 10th-13th 2003 Paris – Tradeshow: Athmosphere d’été
Sept.15th – Oct. 5th, 2003, London – Showroom: Easternblock
September 1st – 15th 2003 New York – Showroom: Novella showroom
Tahitian lover
Spring/Summer 2006 sees Spijkers en Spijkers designers Truus and Riet Spijkers look again to the art world for their collections inspiration. Following the lead of last seasons muse, the twins have looked to Paul Gauguin and more importantly his young Tahitian lover. This combined with influences from the Christiane F. film ‘Wir kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo’, produces the collections muse, a fusion of these young women, linked by their provocative innocence.
The collection echoes the words of Paul Gauguin in a letter to his wife in 1890 where he wrote; ‘May the day come (and perhaps soon) when I can retreat to the woods of an island in Oceania, to live there in ecstasy, in tranquility, and for art. Surrounded by a new family, far from this European pursuit of wealth. There in Tahiti I could, in the silence of beautiful tropical nights, hear the sweet murmuring music of my heart beating in loving harmony with the mysterious beings of my surroundings. Free at last, with no thought of money, to love, sing, and die.’ The romanticism of these comments is not lost in the collection, with geometrically pieced dresses in satin silks, crepe and chiffon pleated and cut just below the knee whilst cropped mannish tailering ,pleated panels and details in tops, dresses, trousers and skirts are taken from the Victorian props in Gauguins paintings.
Spring/Summer 06
September 21st, 2005,
London – Electric Ballroom – Fashion show (Fashion East)
Innocence is not a virtue
Dutch design duo Spijkers en Spijkers, identical twin sisters Truus and Riet Spijkers have looked again to fuse the worlds of fashion and art for their Autumn/Wwinter 2005 / 2006 collection. Following shortly behind seasons art inspired affair, the twins have focused on the dreams and longings of dutch artist Lizzy Ansingh (the doll painter) to set the tome for this seasons collection.
The twins have used Lizzy Ansingh’s Doll house as one of the central influences for the collection. The Dolls house, now part of a public collection of 17th and 18th century dolls houses in the Netherlands, is part of a collection of dolls houses which were never intended for childs play, but built to keep the ladies occupied. Fitting inspiration perhaps, for a Spijkers en Spijkers collection. The doll house was bought by Ansingh in 1910 at an auction in Amsterdam from which it went on to become her world and reality, as well as her inspiration providing the subject for a series of eerily surreal paintings where the dolls came to life.
Spijkers en Spijkers continue to enforce their signature style throughout the collection. One which remains uncompromisingly romantic and partial to the influences of art deco and modernist styles of the 1920’s. Autumn Winter sees Spijkers introduce a silhouette, which runs throughout the collection with emphasis on a cinched waist and volume on the hips. Demonstrated through a chic range of dresses and separates in silk crepe, silk satin, brocade and wool and accompanied by square, curved and v-shaped necklines. Brocade, cashmere and mohair wool coats are created in keeping with the collections new take on the feminine ideal which, alongside a new collaboration with glove maker Nina Peter, (who has created soft leather elbow length gloves for Spijkers in black, ivory emerald green, and beige) make sure that the Spijkers girl is kept warm throughout the season. Continuing last season’s collaboration with Slovenian shoe designer Leonora Mark, shoes take the form of dolls shoes for adults, created in black patent leather and complete with 12 cm stiletto heel.
The Chinese geometric puzzle tangram is used to create various creatures on dresses and tops including cats and bluebirds in cyan blue, emerald green and mercury grey, which appear throughout the collection alongside a more muted colour palette of burgundy, black, beige, and grey continuing to demonstate Spijkers masterful use of colour and resulting in a collection of distinctive, yet wearable designs which maintain a precarious balance between past and present.
Innocence is not a virtue
September 18th, 2006, London – The Royal Horticultural Halls – Fashion show On/Off presentation ‘Spring/Summer 07 collection’
Down the Rabbit Hole
Remember what the dormouse said……feed your head.
Alice in Wonderland is an 1865 novel by Lewis Carrol, about a young girl named Alice that falls through a rabbit hole into a fantasy world of anthropomorphic creatures.
The theme of the book is finding your own identity. Alice always tries to find out who she is in Wonderland, and she asks this question herself very.
September 18th, 2006, London – The Royal Horticultural Halls – Fashion show On/Off presentation ‘Spring/Summer 07 collection’
Down the Rabbit Hole
“I did not loose my glass slipper by accident at midnight; I knew the prince would loose his sanity from such little feet” Cinderella
– Luciana Boccardi
For Autumn/Winter 07/8, Spijkers en Spijkers offers a collection that breathes an oriental modernistic look fused with Eileen Gray inspired Art Deco details. Graphic elements are combined with contrast fabrics and tonal colors in signature Spijkers en Spijkers style.
Oriental inspired shapes have clean lines and easy silhouettes in silk and crepe with brocade and duchess satin for more structured pieces. Silk satin, duchess satin, smocked metallic silk and glass-lacquer voile give a high-tech luxe feel. Colors are deep purple, aubergine, night-shade green, black, silver, copper, ochre and warm grey.
Key styles are the ‘Empire Dress’ with a patched silk central panel and deep back décolletage. The ‘Patch Dress’ has art deco mixed tone on tone fabric. There is a luxe ‘Kimono Cape’ in mohair and lambswool with wide quilted collar and cuffs. Knitted jumpers and cardigans are oversized in double knitted wool. Trousers and skirts are slim line and high waisted while dresses sit over the knee with a fitted micro mini length. Details are large silver disc buttons, half moon shape seams and zips.
Short pointy boots and suede pumps with patent toes by Leonora Mark are inspired by Chinese Lotus shoes.
“I did not loose my glass slipper by accident at midnight; I knew the prince would loose his sanity from such little feet” Cinderella
– Luciana Boccardi
September 19th, 2007, London – Royal Academy of Arts – Fashion show On/Off presentation ‘Spring/Summer 08 collection’
SHE GAVE TO ME THE IMPRESSION OF BEING BORN JUST BEFORE WE MET HER
There are those few people in life that can be considered as having the butterfly effect and with those that do, sometimes the resulting wind can continue for generations. The life of Edie Sedgwick was a whirlwind. The combination of her gamine beauty with a nonchalant attitude intrigued many, and continues to do so. She lived a life uncontrolled by boundary and convention. Spijkers en Spijkers Spring Summer collection is the embodiment of this spirit.
Ten years after Edie’s enrapturing reign over the Big Apple, the Memphis design collective was formed in Milan. Overturning minimalist ideals of the seventies, the Memphis movement found solace in the fusion of pattern and colour, and faith in the notion that through experimentation, everything could find a match in their world. The key belief was to take the chance to unabashedly enjoy the consequences, finding beauty in living without fear.
For both Edie and the Memphis movement an outwardly naïve appearance was in fact an intentionally direct and intimate reaction to a restrictive surrounding.
For SS08, Spijkers en Spijkers have adopted a new revolution to their traditional design concept, ‘form follows function’, into ‘fun follows function’. Spijkers’ signature cuts have evolved to adopt the concurrence of clashing pastel shades with block primaries, and monochromatic stripes with coloured leopard print.
Clean H-shapes and large spring pleats are executed in silk dupion, georgette and satin, along with double wrap organza and bamboo. Silk lurex contributes a bold sparkle for a daring and bold effect, hand-made Memphis style applications reiterate Spijkers’ eye for detail, craftsmanship and authenticity.
September 19th, 2007, London – Royal Academy of Arts – Fashion show On/Off presentation ‘Spring/Summer 08 collection’
SHE GAVE TO ME THE IMPRESSION OF BEING BORN JUST BEFORE WE MET HER
Scarlett thought, “I’ll think about it tomorrow…”
Autumn/Winter 08/09 collection
Woman’s quest to balance social power with her male counterpart has manifested itself in fashions from the first suit-wearing women of the 1890s through to the iconic power-dressed 1980s.
Truus and Riet Spijkers have an innate benefit that could only be possible as twins – they share an introverted view into the desires of outward appearances for the modern woman. The core philosophy behind the label, and particularly this collection, is that being a liberated woman most certainly does not mean to ignore one’s sexuality, but to embrace its power.
For the Autumn/Winter 2008/09, Spijkers en Spijkers has found inspiration in the heroine Scarlett O’Hara, seduced by the iconic image of a muse that was both strong-willed and dynamic. With such an intriguing character at the core of this collection, Spijkers en Spijkers introduces ‘romance’ as a theme, sparking debate as to how an empowered woman can match such a traditionally sex-based concept with her liberated spirit.
Unifying O’Hara’s forceful nature with the depth of artist Aubrey Beardsley’s dark creations from the Art Nouveau era, Spijkers have produced a story that coins the phrase ‘romantic empowerment’. With clever attention to detail, Spijkers en Spijkers Autumn/Winter is a fusion of themes in a collection that is amorously dark, empowering and surreal.
The collection subtly integrates strong power garments and romantic elements with feminine shapes and textures. Surreal images are discreetly imbedded within the garments; a shape reminiscent of a man’s tie reveals itself as a clever fabric fold, the pleated neck of a dress at closer inspection becomes a large bow-tie.
Romantic ruffles and voluminous taffeta capes are combined with sharply tailored yet delicate pencil skirts and trousers. Bold colors and contrasts are presented on lightweight, undeniably feminine fabrics, which take the stage in a refined tribute to Scarlett’s questionable taste.
Signalling a paradigm shift from ‘power dressing’, Spijkers en Spijkers is the embodiment of ‘empowerment dressing’ and this season, with a fleeting glance at the Romantic.
Scarlett thought, “I’ll think about it tomorrow…”
Autumn/Winter 08/09 collection
Spijkers en Spijkers Spring/Summer ’09 embodies inwardly focused beauty.
This collection is a considered study of post 1960’s housewife ideal and is subsequently a twist on the twins’ signature investigation into contemporary feminism.
The era of the Stepford wifes is viewed as women’s capitulation into ‘masculine desire’; therefore the contemporary view of a society of equality is overturned.
When the idea of equality is targeted so vehemently, the question is raised, how have we arrived in an airbrush-aware modern society? Cosmetic surgery is being sold as empowering, how does that reflect on what lies beneath?
In direct response to these questions, Spijkers en Spijkers have unveiled a plethora of contradictions.
The intellectual cut from the Dutch atelier is prevalent as classic flounces take new futuristic twists and manipulated thick organza layers somehow remain semi-transparent; shades of pastel become metallic and femininely soft fabrics and lines are simultaneously stiff and electrically charged.
The natural and the superficial are juxtaposed within each garment. A sense of inner beauty is found in the acknowledgement of contradictions and the futility of extremism.
Flawless (absolutely beautiful)
photography: ALIQUE
Art direction: Mister Wilson
“This, no ballad of innocence; This, the rhyme of a lady who; Followed ever her natural bents…. Decked in garments of sable hue… I loved them until they loved me…” Dorothy Parker, 1924
The fascination Spijkers and Spijkers have for the 1920s can always be perceived in their collections. This season the style-references to this era are modern, sharp and bold.
Dorothy Parker, the American writer and poet, was the muse and inspiration for this AW0910 collection. Dorothy Parker’s wit and strength of character took her places that were new to women at the time. She became the only female drama critic for Vanity Fair in New York and later her left-wing politics got her on the Hollywood ‘blacklist’.
Stripes and bows are key for this collection. The sharp lines and feminine bows are refined and feminine, but also modern and strong. This reflects Dorothy’s artistic, romantic nature, as well as her strength, the convictions to her beliefs and most importantly her sense of risk and her modern approach to life.
It is a season of superabundance, and as Dorothy Parker once said “take care of luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves”. The materials in this collection are luxurious and have a winter warmth. Heavy satins are used for dresses and skirts with large flounces; combinations of transparent silk georgette with heavy knitted rib finishes for tops and dresses. Fabric covered cords are used for flower-shape decorations, which are integrated into dresses and skirts. Coats are voluminous with padded cuffs and collars.
Fabrics are wool ottoman, satin, velvet, silk lurex and for the voluminous coats the designers used double woven satin, mohair and wool boulclé. The colours are bold combinations of deep purple and royal blue, arcade green with black and a combination of skin tones.
This season Spijkers en Spijkers have taken on a new collaborator; the shoes for this collection are designed by the Dutch Master of shoes: Jan Jansen, produced by Gucci. Truus and Riet have admired Jan Jansen’s work for years and are very excited that he has created the shoes for their collection.
“This, no ballad of innocence; This, the rhyme of a lady who; Followed ever her natural bents…. Decked in garments of sable hue… I loved them until they loved me…” Dorothy Parker, 1924
“This, no ballad of innocence; This, the rhyme of a lady who; Followed ever her natural bents…. Decked in garments of sable hue… I loved them until they loved me…” Dorothy Parker, 1924
Photography: ALIQUE
Referencing the hallowed words of Oscar Wilde, Spijkers en Spijkers looked at the stars this season and created a whimsical collection based on celestial bodies, slumbering dreams and effervescent hope.
“Pandora’s box” the Greek Myth and the classic German 1929 movie that carries the same title is the inspiration for the SS2010 collection of Spijkers en Spijkers.
Pandora was given many seductive gifts from the Gods, one such gift was a box with strict instruction by Zeus to keep it closed. The gift of curiosity was also given to Pandora and ultimately she opened the box, unleashing many evils on mankind. With a classical twist at the very bottom of the box, lay the unexpected: Hope.
The 1920’s icon Louise Brooks in her role as Lulu embodies a modern translation of the mythical character Pandora and became the Muse for this collection. She shows the rise and inevitable fall of an immoral yet naïve young woman whose insolent eroticism inspires lust and violence in those around her, with many delicious parallels to Pandora’s ancient story.
Referring to Greek cues, draping and graphic stars are integral to the collection. The materials are light and summery; Cotton blends mingle with Silk Crepe de Chine, Satin, Bamboo Voile, and Silk Poplin and light Wool. Stripes emphasize the draping and vary from diagonal to straight lines. The star shapes are subtle yet bold. Chunky lines and colour blocks contrast with petite shapes crafted using seams cleverly worked inside out.
The SS10 collection will be launched at Studio Zeta Milan the 25th of September with a cocktail-party and salon-show. Celebrating the new collaboration between Studio Zeta Milano and Spijkers en Spijkers.
„Der Mittler zwischen Hirn und Händen muss das Herz sein“
(“The mediator between head and hands is the heart”)
Taking inspiration from the epic film Metropolis directed by Fritz Lang, Spijkers en Spijkers direct their Autumn/Winter 2010/11 collection in a futuristic take on their classic 1920’s inspired style.
The futuristic scenery and images of the film link not only to German expressionism, but also to contemporary Modernism and Art Deco. Metropolis is still impressive for its visionary decor and the ageless story about the magnitude of love.
At first sight Metropolis looks like a perfect city, but underneath the Ray-gun style Gothic skyscrapers of the upper-world lays the laborious and dirty underworld. The upper can’t exist without the labour of the underworld beneath it. It is Freder, son of the city manager, who binds these two worlds together, out of love for Maria, a girl from the world below.
Maria, who is transformed into the robot woman ‘Hel’ is the muse for this collection. Spijkers en Spijkers have taken a sharp-witted approach on Maria, portraying her as sensitive and strong, and conveying this through the fabrics and prints for AW 2010.
The twins have created a collection inspired by the luxury and glamour of Metropolis’ upper-world, then contrasting with the grubby workmen beneath. Metal-look, shiny fabrics combined with simple, casual materials like cotton and wool blend and emphasize the contrast. At the same time they intensify and compliment each other. Diagonal lines and shapes give a new dynamic to the designs and refer to the streamlined modern style of the late 1920’s. Base colors are typically light earth tones, off-whites, grays or beiges; the trim colors are bright and dark to contrast the light color of the garments. Metropolis’ skyline is re-created in printed silks, which reflect light and theme of this collection.
Autumn/Winter 2010/11 is about balance between shape, material and colour giving a new angle to Spijkers en Spijkers already varied and successful repertoire.
SS11 SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers “daar was laatst een meisje loos” Amsterdam Fashion Week
1st SIS collection
SIS more accessible With this occiput Spijkers en Spijkers created their SIS line to be a more accessible line to carry out their vision and draw an opportunity to enlarge their audience in the Netherlands and abroad. The Art-deco influences the graphic detailing and the explicit use of colour which are key for the spijkers en spijkers style, can be seen as a laboratory for the difussion line SiS. The SIS collection will be covered with the same aura and will be an asset to the main line.
“Resort there was a clever girl” The theme that spijkers en spijkers choose for this summer-collection of SiS, is a theme that is close to their Dutch hart. The folk song: “Daar was laatst een meisje loos, die wou gaan varen…. (resort there was a clever girl, who wished to sail…)
The song is about a girl that is looking for an adventurous live, away from the beaten track. She dresses up like a sailorman and sailes the seas, where she finally gets discovered and charged for her bamboozle.
Maritime in bon ton style The collection has sailor influences in bon ton style, the sea-life graphics and the shape of the garments are referring to the designers preference for the Art-deco style. Their use of anmimal prints is like a water-colour paiting which perfectly fits the theme. The fabrics are summery and light , cotton voile , silk georgette, silk/cotton blends and cotton ottoman. The colours are brisk and vivid, various shades of blue in combination with crisp white and a touch of black.
SIS SS11 collection “daar was laatst een meisje loos” Amsterdam Fashion Week
1e SIS collectie
For SS11 Spijkers en Spijkers were inspired by Elisa Day, or the place where the wild roses grow, a song written by Nick Cave and performed together with Kylie Minogue as a dialogue between a killer and his victim. A gloomy story about the love between Elisa and her first lover who becomes entranced by Elisa’s beauty and hates the idea of it fading. He gets so obsessed with the beauty of Elisa that he wants to kill her in order to preserve the image of her forever. He brings her a beautiful red rose and asks her if she’d like to see where such beauty could come from. He takes Elisa to the river, where he gives her a farewell kiss and then kills her with a rock. They say her ghost lingers at the place of the murder, but people are seeing only the roses and talk about them.
This theme about love, beauty, innocence and ephemerality inspired Spijkers en Spijkers to make a charming collection, bringing out youthfulness and beauty that is concealed in every woman regardless of her age. The designs are lovely and elegant and appear to reveal parts of the female body in exciting but delicate ways. Short skirts and dresses, long loose pantsuits, light blouses and summery jackets decorated in basket silk, printed crepe de chine, silk ponge and linen blends. White in combination with bright flower prints, lace and broidery Anglaise with bright scarlet red and black accents. Lovely painted floral patterns are combined with explicit graphic shapes in a manner reminiscent of a kaleidoscope. For this collection is that each design is refined and finished with decorative details such as fabric folded roses, flower lace and beaded flower embroideries.